There were Chinese guards who nervously watched us, on the river there were North Korean guards that nervously ignored us. the boat guy kept motioning for me NOT to take pictures of the north Koreans. That was o.k. as we secretly spied on them beforehand using huge binoculars on the great wall. It was like looking through a magic glass that distilled time and wound back the clock 100 years. Then the bright fluorescent life jacket and frantic Chinese military men draw you back as you think about skipping across the river to the tantalizing "dark side". Just how far would they let you go?
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